Twelve months is a long time in the world of perfume, where fragrance trends really can change overnight depending on the latest celebrity or influencer endorsement, but the quality of the launches this year has been incredible. We were treated to a real resurgence of violet, with the ingredient appearing in many successful releases, and also a happily renewed interest in the independent side of the industry. So, as we approach the end of 2024, it’s time to look back at twelve months of reviews on stephanmatthews.com and, while once again channelling my inner Blyton, pick My Favourite Five.
There are certain perfume brands that, happily for fragrance fans around the world, stay true to their original inspiration and ethos. It’s very easy for companies to swerve off in varying directions once their name is known, but this can lead to confusion amongst followers and uncertainty for new disciples. You'll have heard the old adage that “familiarity breeds contempt”, but in the world of fragrance it’s actually something to be respected and admired. Sarah Baker Perfumes launched with a promise to bring some Hollywood glamour to scent, often through literary inspirations, and this holds true with her new Peach’s Revenge.
Reviving and reinvigorating a legacy is not a job for the faint hearted, especially in the world of perfume and beauty. This demanding market is crammed full of faded fragrances and tired treatments, and so taking the decision to fight for a scented slice of the pie is a brave move. However, when you have an instantly recognisable brand name, a tradition that is steeped in quality, and experience that stretches back decades, you have a distinct advantage. The world famous Bronnley is back on the shelves after 12 months of hard work, and the lustre has well and truly been returned to this classic British brand.
As the weather starts to turn colder, and the attic is once again searched for the mysterious disappearing box of decorations, our thoughts turn to the scents that will surround us during the month of December. In my house the aroma of warmed tinsel is a regular treat, but the Christmas Candle is also a tradition that requires a lot of thought each year. With so many choices out there, navigating the ever-growing options can be daunting. So, from Paris to Glasgow, with a stop at Leighton Buzzard, I’m back for another year to recommend the perfect flickering feast in my annual Top Five Candles for Christmas.
The discussion around gender within fragrance is a topic that has really come to the fore over the past ten years. There was always an argument that the notion of “flowers are for girls” and “woods are for men” was outdated, if it ever really applied in the first place to be honest, but the advent of more fluidity around gender has meant perfume companies have had to finally start addressing the issue head on. It’s a very fine line to walk, without coming across as if you’re riding off the back of someone else’s cause, but it’s one that Superdry have successfully championed in their new duo of exciting fragrances.
Are you a bibliophile, a bibliophage or a reader? The joy of disappearing into a book is something that the world rediscovered during the years of lockdown and, forgiving the slight downturn as the world reopened, has remained strong during 2024. New authors come and go, new subjects are touted as the next new thing, but there are some book categories that remain solid sellers. Perfume and horticulture are two such topics, which does beg the question, “why has it taken so long to combine them into the perfect coffee table tome?” Well, the wait is finally over as we welcome Fragrance: From Plant To Perfume.
Autumn can be a bit of strange period for perfume releases, because it’s often seen as a little bit of an in-between season. We’ve just left the sunshine of the summer with its radiant citruses and are transitioning into the cold weather that’s traditionally personified by winter resins. That means this three-month period is one that is usually given over to celebrating crisp autumnal green notes, unless you’re jumping forward early to December. One company that has cleverly combined both of these into a single release is C.Atherley with their new Geranium No.2 scent, and it’s destined to be just as successful as No.1.
With the similarity between music and perfume, it’s no surprise that the former often acts as inspiration for the latter. I’ve talked before about the crossover of “notes” and “chords”, and even the array of ingredient bottles being described as a perfumer’s “organ”, and so it’s always fun to find a new fragrance that takes up the thread. Perfumes have been inspired by specific pieces of music, or particular pop bands, but an operatic season is a slightly different approach. Eight & Bob have taken the world-famous Glyndebourne Festival as their starting point, and the resulting La Musique de Christie hits all of the right notes.
In a world that is dominated by pictures of the perfect body, the most sumptuous living room, or the ideal holiday getaway, it can begin to feel like there is no possible way of measuring up to these often-enhanced images. This important discussion around what real life actually looks like, versus the doctored online perceptions, isn't a subject that you would necessarily think would form the inspiration for a perfume brand. Well, it has. In an attempt to make things decidedly more “real”, NOYZ has arrived to cut through the fictitious and replace it with fact, and they’ve begun with their scented antidote to a Sh**ty Day.
