Stephan Matthews

Showing posts with label Robertet. Show all posts

Monday, 29 June 2026

L'EAU DE ROSE by 1000 Flowers

A bottle of L'eau de Rose from 1000 Flowers and Jessica Buchanan

When an existing perfume company is looking to extend their fragrance collection, it more than often ends up taking the form of a complex new scent. However, that doesn’t always need to be the case. Many ingredients that are used in perfumery can be thought of as a fragrance in themselves, made up of a multitude of facets, and so the decision to launch a singular floral water can be a welcome change. That is exactly what Jessica Buchanan of 1000 Flowers has done with her L’eau de Rose, and the result is an uplifting scent that is perfect for mind, body and the imminent arrival of the hot weather.

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Monday, 16 September 2024

HASU-NO-HANA by Grossmith

Having an established history and a worldwide reputation is not always a guarantee of success for a perfume house, especially if it’s one that was revived after a period of dormancy. Living up to the memories of customers who may, without actually realising it, be recalling scents in a far-from-true form can often prove difficult to navigate. However, when it’s done right, it can prove to be a diamond in a sea of commercial beige. One such perfume house is Grossmith who, after a period in the wilderness solely surviving on novelty soap, was reborn as the luxury brand that it always was and which it truly deserves to remain.

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Monday, 17 October 2022

SHEM-EL-NESSIM by Grossmith

Shem-el-Nessim Perfume Bottle from Grossmith

There aren't many perfume houses that have managed to survive the journey from historic fragrance to mass market crowd pleaser, because these two styles of scent usually resonate with very different groups. The change often happens because of a change in tastes, but it’s the act of recognising this that can mean the difference between a company continuing or closing. Grossmith is an example of a historic company that survived by cleverly switching to post-war fragrance fashions, but their original perfumes really are still the stuff of legend. Remastered and reinvigorated, it’s time to rediscover the iris-laden Shem-el-Nessim.

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Thursday, 24 June 2021

DIVINE L'ÉTERNEL FÉMININ by Richard Ibanez

If there’s one thing that the past twelve months have taught me it’s that I really do need to reach into the back of my cupboards a little more often. We all have a tendency to focus on what’s right in front of our noses, quite literally with perfume, and so often miss the treasures that are hiding in the shadows. New purchases are placed at the front and old favourites get forgotten. This became clear when I was having a rummage recently and came across a 2014 bottle of pure delight. So, after seven years of waiting patiently, it’s time to rediscover the exquisite magic of Divine L’éternel Féminin by Richard Ibanez.

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Thursday, 30 July 2020

RACINE DE VETIVER by Jessica Buchanan

When we think about the scent of certain ingredients our minds often unconsciously latch onto the smell of a fragrance that shares its name. How many times have you seen companies launch perfumes with gardenia, sandalwood, even oud proudly displayed on the front of the bottle? These are all blends of ingredients that give a scented experience that may, or may not, mirror the smell of the original. One perfumer who has excelled at harnessing, amplifying, and exploding an ingredient is Jessica Buchanan with her latest fragrance called Racine de Vetiver. Forget your preconceptions because you’re in for a real treat.

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Monday, 15 June 2020

SANTAL SKY by Kierin NYC

One of the interesting things about the fragrance industry is its continual return to certain key ingredients. The constant demand for “newness” and “pushing the boundaries” is all very well for transient shoppers but, by also focusing on those perfume building blocks, attracting steadfast fans is the difference between success and failure. Sandalwood has long been revered as one of the most sensual woods that can be used in the creation of a scent, and so it’s not surprising that many companies have attempted their own version. One of the newest to try and capture its magic is Kierin NYC with their Santal Sky.

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Monday, 15 July 2019

RÉGLISSE NOIRE and ROSE CASSIS PARADIS by Jessica Buchanan

The road to becoming a perfumer is an incredibly varied one with choices and sacrifices needing to be made from the very beginning. One of the biggest decisions though is whether to train privately or as part of an institution, or even to dispense with formal training all together. When Jessica Buchanan took the brave leap to move from western Canada to Grasse she really did put all of her eggs in one basket, but she was determined to succeed. Twelve years later she is the founder of her own company, 1000 Flowers, and the creator of the exquisite fragrances Réglisse Noire and Rose Cassis Paradis.

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Monday, 3 September 2018

NOIX DE TUBÉREUSE by Miller Harris

As we head into autumn it’s the time when perfume companies start to release and promote their seasonal offerings. However, this is also the time when it’s good to remember that these brands have catalogues full of impressive survivors. The “newest” might not always be the right fit for you but I can guarantee that within the collections you will find some quiet gems. One such fragrance is Noix de Tubéreuse from Miller Harris. Originally launched in 2003, and created by the company’s founder, this is a magical tuberose and definitely one that deserves wider recognition. Let’s revisit Noix de Tubéreuse.

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Thursday, 1 March 2018

AMBRE SULTAN by Serge Lutens

When the weather takes a turn for the worse, and snow starts falling as companies launch their latest “springtime scent”, many customers almost ricochet back to the familiar warmth and spice that you get with the great oriental fragrances. The woods, resins and intoxicating florals help transport you to sunnier climes as we fend off the icy winds. For my perfume of escape this week I chose Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens and, whilst it might not be exactly thought of as an oriental, it definitely packs a punch with the sensuous laudanum. So, let me introduce you the fragrance about which Serge warned, “don’t expect it to fit in”.

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Thursday, 25 January 2018

OLD COTTAGE LAVENDER by Grossmith

The continuing quest for vintage fragrances is one that can set you back hundreds if not thousands of pounds. Perfume fans are desperate to try original formulations in an effort to compare them with the versions that are currently available. Obviously the price is dependent on demand but that doesn’t mean that you can’t acquire your own vintage for a lot less. One fragrance that is no longer available, but was incredibly successful, is Old Cottage Lavender by Grossmith. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking that this is just another lavender water because it is so much more. Let me show you what this classic has to offer.

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Thursday, 28 September 2017

Miller Harris Launch TENDER and SCHERZO

Fragrance launches happen nearly every week and each one tries to outdo the other with scale and cost. Miller Harris took a very different approach today when they revealed their two new fragrances, Tender and Scherzo, to an eager group of bloggers and journalists. They presented, in minimalist surroundings, two distinctly different visual interpretations, but the character and soul of the project was perfectly captured. One brief, two perfumers, two fragrances. It’s an interesting experiment and one that has definitely paid off. So, let me walk you through “kaleidoscopic peonies” as we discover “Tender Is The Night”.

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Thursday, 4 May 2017

The Age Of Transparency

"Transparency" is a word that you often hear mentioned when it comes to the perfume industry. For many years perfume houses would release fragrances under their own name, or assign them to an in-house "nose", when they had actually been created by an outside company. This wasn't done maliciously; it was just the way the industry worked. Customers were not particularly interested in who had made the juice in the bottle, just that it came with their favourite company's logo on the glass. Of course there had always been fans that wanted to know every detail but it’s only recently that "transparency" has become the industry's key word.

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After twenty successful years as an actor, I decided the time was right to begin a new career, and that was in the perfume industry. Scent had always been a passion of mine, and working alongside a new group of creative minds ended up being the perfect fit.

As a Brand Consultant, Evaluator, Copywriter and New Business Advisor, the variety of work is exciting, and definitely draws on my acting background. Every day brings new challenges, experiences and delights to a workplace that is crammed full of new releases, evergreens, and fading classics.

This website brings together my ramblings on all aspects of the perfume industry from bottle design to fragrance, companies to noses, and everything in between.

Opinions are my own and do not in any way represent the views of the companies mentioned. Where products or services have been provided by the companies it is stated at the end of the article.

Companies and readers are welcome to contact me by using the Send Me A Message option below.

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Monday, 29 June 2026

Monday, 16 September 2024

Monday, 17 October 2022

Thursday, 24 June 2021

Thursday, 30 July 2020

Monday, 15 June 2020

Monday, 15 July 2019

Monday, 3 September 2018

Thursday, 1 March 2018

Thursday, 25 January 2018

Thursday, 28 September 2017

Thursday, 4 May 2017