Fragrance is something we usually just think of as a product that is spritzed from a bottle, escapes from a diffuser or candle, or is enjoyed in a moisturiser. All of these are firmly anchored in our desire to either smell good or to scent our surroundings. There is another way to enjoy fragrance though, and that’s though experiential scents. These are designed to conjure locations, emotions, or events, but should be experienced in a space rather than worn. This type of scenting is enjoying a real resurgence at the moment, and Simon Constantine is the latest to absolutely nail it with the Folk Archive from Ånd Fragrance.
When Gorilla Perfumes closed the doors of their Islington store on January 22nd 2017, there was concern that their ground-breaking fragrances would also be locked away. Many perfume companies have disappeared over the years, and it’s not for want of trying, but finding a big enough customer base is the problem for many brands. Thankfully the perfumer behind Gorilla Perfumes was Simon Constantine, son of the founder of LUSH, and so the fragrances found a new home in the LUSH collection. There were many fascinating Gorilla Perfumes releases, but one of the most playful has to be the glorious Tank Battle.
One of the interesting aspects of “niche” or “independent” perfumery is its ability to adapt and evolve in directions that are specific to the company. Mainstream brands often feel more pressure to conform to trends and fashions, whereas the smaller companies can take advantage of the situation by pivoting based on their customers’ demands. I’m not talking about the usual “flankers” or “limited editions”, but more the idea of offering variations based on feedback received. One company that has fully embraced this idea is ånd fragrance, with their voyage-of-discovery collaboration with Careys Secret Garden.
When you think about the various possible inspirations for perfume then the list usually includes pretty standard ideas like music, cities, ingredients, memories etc. This is because these are the “inspirations” that are so often trumpeted by the many fragrance companies. Obviously there are others that can be called on to ignite the creativity, but one of the boldest was surely embraced back in 2013. Acclaimed perfumer Pia Long was at that point in her career working for LUSH and, due to an unexpected track change, the now legendary 29 High Street perfume was born. Eleven years later, it’s time to revisit the fragrance's story.
We place a lot of importance on words and titles in everyday life, and the same is also true in the world of perfumery. The difference with the latter though is that words can very much be open to personal interpretation. If you think about “note lists” versus “ingredient lists”, “fragrance families” versus “fragrance styles”, or even “eau de parfum” versus “eau de toilette”, you’ll begin to see how it’s not as clear cut as it might first seem. So, this brings us to the latest release from ånd fragrance. Cåke is the name but, if you’re expecting a gourmand overdose that means a trip to the dentist, then you’ll be happily relieved.
There are two ways that a perfume company can approach new launches; they can either machine gun them out as fast as possible or take a more measured approach. The former is guaranteed to generate sales, but it’s the latter that’s more likely to also create loyal followers. The market is saturated with new releases every month, and so gathering this fan base is vital. That’s the direction that ånd Fragrance have taken under the ever-watchful eye of founder Simon Constantine, and 2023 sees a new perfume join the collection. So, with Brazilian rosewood under the spotlight this time, it’s time to discover Bårk.
With summer holidays now in full swing, and the weather showing no signs of switching from sunshine to rain, you may have already reached the point of wondering how to fill those long weekends. Mooching around another National Trust property can quickly lose its appeal, and endless days on packed beaches can become a little stale, so what are the options for fragrance fans? After concentrating merely on the scent that comes from a perfume bottle, now is the perfect time to go back to basics. So, grab your lunch box as we enjoy a Blyton-esque "scented adventure in Dorset", and discover two gardens that are well worth a visit.
There can’t be many people that haven’t, at some point in their lives, wished that they could momentarily escape from the world by disappearing into their own private space. That wonderful thought of tranquillity and nature rubbing along with each other hand in hand. This idea of an undisturbed place was immortalised in Frances Hodgson Burnett‘s famous 1911 book, the Secret Garden. Now, Simon Constantine’s discovery of his “secret garden” was just as exciting, although a little less manicured, and he’s chosen to immortalise it in a strictly limited edition perfume release. So, are you ready to hunt out the green door in the ivy?
Whenever I interview people for “Stephan’s Six”, the question about their first scent memory often gravitates towards deliciously scented food. The aroma of fresh bread, the sweet scent of buttercream, or even zesty homemade lemonade, these subconscious childhood fragrances can really shape our future perfume preferences. No one can forget the experience of biting into an unripe gooseberry, or getting to lick the uncooked cake mix off the spatula, so finding all of these sensations combined in a perfume is an unexpected treat. Får from ånd fragrance is the latest in their collection, and it’s every Bake Off fan’s dream.
There are certain ingredients that will forever be associated with a particular decade, and it can be very difficult to shake off those attachments. Just the mention of the name can conjure up forgotten times or misplaced lovers, and it can often be hard to see beyond these memories. However, if we do, there’s a whole new scented world to experience. One such ingredient is patchouli, and it instantly pulls up images of the 1970s. Creating a new interpretation of this iconic aroma has been tried many times, with varying success, but the latest attempt from ånd fragrance is an absolute winner. It’s time to discover Påtch.
The world of fragrance is really starting to focus on commitments to sustainability, eco consciousness, and plastic reduction. Well, to be honest, the majority of companies are just hopping onto the bandwagon with the minimum input so that they can use the “buzz words” in their marketing. Sustainability does not just mean recycled glass, and eco consciousness goes far beyond merely removing cellophane from your perfume box. However, one company that has absolutely committed to these pledges is ånd fragrance, and their Sånd perfume shows that environmental concerns and incredible fragrances can definitely go hand in hand.
Launching an online brand in the middle of a global pandemic is certainly not something for the faint hearted. However, following that up with the opening of a physical shop, as we exit the UK’s latest lockdown, pushes the boundaries for even the most daring of people. That is exactly what Simon Constantine has done with ånd fragrance. He has managed to take Corporate Social Responsibility to a whole new level, invested in the struggling world of high street retail, and launched five fantastic fragrances. I went to Poole to visit the new store and also to discover his latest release, the Tåg Solid Perfume.
The past twelve months have certainly not been what any of us could have expected. January started off with all of the usual excitement but, very quickly, the world changed dramatically. With restrictions, lockdowns, and a mammoth shift in our everyday lives, it would have been easy to just pull the covers over our heads... but we all soldiered on. The situation was certainly not easy for the fragrance industry either, but they still managed to launch some spectacular products. As we approach the end of 2020 I thought it would be a good moment to look back at twelve months of articles, channel my inner Blyton, and pick My Favourite Five.
An aspect of daily life that recent months has highlighted is one of community. Neighbourly support mechanisms were suddenly brought back into service, and many wondered why we had allowed them to disappear in the first place. When it comes to business, this idea of support is called Corporate Social Responsibility, but often amounts to nothing more than bucket rattling. One company that's shaking up the perfume industry’s perception of “giving back” is ånd. Under the direction of Simon Constantine, it’s time to discover how fragrance can offer independence and also bask in the beauty of Båre.
Following in the footsteps of a parental duo that redefined scented bath and body products is an enormous challenge, but it’s one that Simon Constantine has fully embraced. LUSH was the family firm and it’s where he created the successful Gorilla Perfumes, but in September he announced that he was leaving to concentrate on his latest project, ånd fragrances. So, with a renewed desire to encourage accountability and sustainability through scent, I thought that it was time to discover his perfumed memories during “Stephan’s Six”.
