After originally training as an aromatherapist, Jessica Buchanan moved from her native Canada to train at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery. Internships at Robertet and Mane followed and finally, in 2010, she launched her own perfume company in the heart of Grasse. Nine years after founding 1000 Flowers I thought it was time to find out a little more about Jessica during “Stephan’s Six”.
The decision that faces every perfume house at some point in their lives is which fragrances will be discontinued and which will remain. The outcome can often be met with anger from die-hard fans that think the company have made a mistake but the choice, more often than not, is made due to declining sales. Yves Rocher have majorly reduced their classic range of fragrances in recent years, both male and female, in favour of new releases but one fragrance has just been given a new lease of life. Hoggar by Marie-Aude Couture-Bluche has been spruced up to perfectly complement their masculine range.
I don’t know who originally coined the expression “reinvention is the key to success” but it’s definitely one that could be applied to the company behind Colonia Club. With a history dating back over one hundred years you could be forgiven for thinking that Acqua di Parma could rest on its laurels, but times have not always been as secure as they are today for this famous brand. Taking inspiration from the company’s iconic burst of hesperidic freshness, Colonia Club is firmly anchored into the timeless tradition of colognes, but an overdose of aromatics makes this wonderfully engaging. So, it’s time to head to Italy.
When it comes to answering the age-old question of how to make your fragrance last longer, the response is always to make sure that the skin you’re spraying the perfume onto is moisturised. The act of hydrating your skin can dramatically increase the longevity of your scent, but finding one that goes with your particular perfume can be a challenge. A decade ago a product was launched that has become my “go to” recommendation and, on its tenth birthday, it’s time for me to introduce it to you as well. More than just a body moisturiser, say hello to Ancienne Ambiance’s Goddess Argan Beauty Oil.
Launching any fragrance brand can be a daunting prospect with pitfalls and obstacles around every corner. It becomes even more of a challenge when the customer that you’re aiming for is more used to buying an “own brand” perfume as opposed to a high street or niche scent. The balance between performance and price is a precarious one to navigate in that market, but this hasn’t deterred Laurelle from entering the arena with their new range, The Scent Doctor. The first trio of fragrances is made up of Neroli, Gardenia, and Rose & Jasmine but, even at their prescription price, will you be making an appointment with this doctor?
It’s hard to believe that eleven years have passed since a perfume book was published that revolutionised the fragrance industry. Up until that point there had been magazine articles, reviews, and the world of blogger criticism was exploding, but there had never been a book that truly critiqued scent. This is where Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez came in with Perfumes: The A-Z Guide. Now in its umpteenth edition in the UK, and finally rereleased in America, it's time to revisit this legendary publication to see whether it can still claim to be, in the words of David Sexton, “nothing less than an essential possession.”
When a perfume company takes a very particular inspiration for its fragrances it can often run into difficulties with breaking out of a perceived style. This has been one of the challenges with Victor Wong’s Zoologist range, but it’s one that is about to be blown out of the water. The brand became known for highly scented animalic fragrances that often veered more towards “olfactory artistry” than “wearability” and, with the exception of Hummingbird and Camel, were very anchored in a niche clientele. This month sees the launch of Daniel Pescio’s Chameleon and his balance between style and substance is absolutely spot on.
It’s always very difficult to pin down the seasons, especially with the current unexpected variations in temperature, but there is one annual fragrance release that definitely makes it feel like spring has arrived. Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria range has earned a reputation for lifting us out of the winter blues and hinting at the warmth that is to come, and this year there are three to choose from. Flora Cherrysia, Ginger Piccante, and Coconut Fizz join the existing lineup and perfectly compliment the ten already on offer. Created by Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk, let’s see what Guerlain has created for 2019.
The pressures that are on companies to keep producing exciting and original fragrances have never been greater. Our constant demand for “new and diverting” has to be carefully tempered with “familiar and accessible” in order to make the cash registers ring. It’s this mainstream offering of safe, middle ground scents that has seen an increase in customers looking to independent and niche perfumers for their excitement and creativity. Sven Pritzkoleit of SP Parfums is a perfect example of this and last year saw the release of his wonderfully engaging Rose Polaroid. Six months later it’s time to revisit this flash-bulb floral.
