The subject of sustainability and safety is one that goes far beyond just the perfume industry, but that hasn’t stopped it being a major topic of discussion amongst both high street and niche fragrance customers. We’ve all become much more conscious in recent years about what goes in and on our bodies, and companies have tried to address this with both spin and science. It’s often thought that “sustainability and safety” comes at a financial cost, at least that's what we usually see when we get to the checkout, but Müller have smashed this idea with their new hej:pure trio of clean and environmentally-friendly fragrances.
When we talk about the newest fragrance, or the latest must-have release, our thoughts will instantly turn to those images of the bottles that we’ve seen in magazines or online. We instinctively look forward at what is to come, but there is a treasure trove of perfumes that are also waiting for us in the past. The idea of “newness” is often confused with “latest” but, if you stop and think about it, everything is “new” to someone. With finances getting a little tighter, some historic searching can turn up some fantastic fragrances at inexpensive prices. So, with that in mind, it’s time to rediscover Halston 1-12.
If you think about the vast number of fragrances that are launched every year you’ll understand why securing a following is so important. The constant stream of new releases can potentially result in us switching our allegiance to the new kid on the block, and then it’s very hard to tempt us back. It wasn’t always like this. In the past, the launches every year were only in double figures, and that actually may be one of the reasons why some have stood the test of time. One such fragrance is Halston Z-14 and, as it celebrates its forty-fifth birthday, I thought it was time to see whether the years had been kind.
The term “best seller” is one that gets thrown around with ease these days. Everything seems to qualify for the description, from fragrances through to books, so you often wonder what they’re actually being compared with? The days of the true “international best seller” are long gone, because customers demand constant variety and novelty, but it wasn’t always that way. Forty-six years ago a perfume was released by Max Factor that truly took the world by storm and, excusing a few reformulations, is still in production. Familiar to many, but possibly new to some, it’s time to rediscover the legend that is Halston by Bernard Chant.
Inspiration comes in many forms and that couldn’t be truer of the perfume industry. When you consider the thousands of fragrances released every year it becomes clear just how important it is to choose the correct subject. Many wonderful creations are undiscovered due to badly conceived marketing or a basic disinterest in the concept, but there's a company that has absolutely nailed it in every respect. Combining a love of evocative scents with a rapidly accelerating analogue trend, Jusbox have given us a fragranced vinyl experience that will have you reaching for your turntable. It’s time to discover Black Powder.
You often hear the word “exclusive” applied to perfumes within a company’s range but, more often than not, they tend to be a discontinued fragrance that’s been rereleased under a new name. This is wonderful news for fans of the original but it can smack of a laziness on the part of the company. What is always exciting though is when an “exclusive” is released from a young niche brand because, as they don’t have a huge archive, the fragrance is likely to be a new creation. This is the case with Tabac Rose from bdk Parfums, the Harrods exclusive that has definitely set temperatures racing.
When it comes to new perfume releases we often get bombarded with very serious stories about its inspiration, or details of a company’s “Corporate Social Responsibility,” before we’ve even smelled the fragrance. To the majority of people, wearing perfume is just a fun frivolity that makes them feel happy and confident. It’s this latter idea of playfulness mixed with individuality that Candice Rosa chose when she decided to launch Ma Blonde. Based in Canada, everything about this brand screams “fun” and, with a fragrance to back up the concept, it could well be my guilty pleasure for this summer.
In the never-ending hunt for the latest fragrance some customers turn to the high street whilst others opt for a more “niche” company. It’s this second option that many hope will mean that their perfume is less likely to turn up on a friend or colleague. Interestingly though, what is widely available in one country may be much harder to find in another, so does that mean it could be called niche-esque? One such company is Yves Rocher, which is available in France through its network of stores but only available in the UK by mail order. So, in case you missed it, let me introduce you to their 2017 release, Oui à l’Amour.
"Transparency" is a word that you often hear mentioned when it comes to the perfume industry. For many years perfume houses would release fragrances under their own name, or assign them to an in-house "nose", when they had actually been created by an outside company. This wasn't done maliciously; it was just the way the industry worked. Customers were not particularly interested in who had made the juice in the bottle, just that it came with their favourite company's logo on the glass. Of course there had always been fans that wanted to know every detail but it’s only recently that "transparency" has become the industry's key word.
It’s blossom time again for Jo Malone London! A now regular tradition for the company, the limited edition Spring/Summer floral immediately follows their Brit Collection every year. This time it’s the turn of Star Magnolia, which promises to be “flirtatious, pristine and gleaming”. The company has once again turned to Anne Flipo of IFF to create this “tantalising” bloom in the hope that it will mirror the success of last year’s Nashi Blossom by Fabrice Pellegrin. Having already created their 2016 Herb Garden collection, as well as Basil & Neroli, Anne understands the style but how would she fare with this Shanghai floral?
Many people teach perfumery but very few are able claim the industry experience that Karen Gilbert can. She worked as a fragrance evaluator for many years before starting her own teaching and consultancy business, and her courses are always inspirational. A regular at perfumery events, what secrets would she reveal during "Stephan's Six"?
