The world is a very noisy place, especially at the moment, and so it’s no surprise that people are desperately hunting for ways to switch off and unwind. The aromatherapy route is an eternally popular one, which is why the idea of scented wellbeing has been so enthusiastically embraced by numerous perfume brands - even if some of the claims really do stretch scented promises to the limits of possibility! However, there is a much more traditional way to unplug from the realities of everyday life, and its popularity is on the up. I’m talking about the humble bathtub, and the wonderfully simple bath salts.
Creating a following in the perfume industry is something fragrance companies often spend tens of thousands of pounds trying to achieve. Indeed, the actual perfume can often become secondary to the marketing machine that surrounds it. With so many fragrances and ever-emerging brands to choose from every year, you can understand how important a loyal fan base can be. Most niche companies don’t have the finances to pump into adverts and PR - their product has to speak for itself. The perfect example of this is Papillon Perfumery, and their latest Epona perfume once again proves that they are a true thoroughbred.
There are certain fragrances and styles that have earned a well-deserved place in history as “go to” scents, and this is even more incredible when they stretch across centuries. Tastes have a frustrating habit of changing, and so once-favoured perfumes or ingredients can become lost to time, but there are still some that doggedly hang around and refuse to be pushed into the corner. One such ingredient is the humble lime, and it’s this that is showcased so brilliantly in Shay & Blue Sicilian Limes. Originally launched in 2013, and created by perfumer Julie Massé, the time is definitely ripe for a revisit.
The link between music and perfume is one that is constantly referenced in today’s fragrances but, to be honest, those creative and academic similarities have been around since the very first scent was put in the very first bottle. Whether it’s the cross-over in terms of words like “notes” and “chords” or the naming of the “perfumer’s organ”, the intertwining of these two creative industries is clear to see. It’s not surprising then that some people have a foot in both camps, and strive to forge closer bonds between them. Leonie Sherif is the latest to try her hand, and her Venus perfume promises to “unlock the energy within”.
The excited wait for a new fragrance launch is something that is lost on many people these days, simply because there seems to be a new perfume released every minute! Keeping focused when there are images of bottles assaulting your eyes on social media, and campaigns running on the tv, gets harder every year. Add into this the ever-increasing prices and you’d be forgiven for taking up a more inexpensive hobby. Thankfully there’s one company that always keeps its offerings affordable and exciting. Fragonard have continued their Flower of the Year series into 2024 with Lilas, and the result is deliciously delightful.
One of the interesting aspects of “niche” or “independent” perfumery is its ability to adapt and evolve in directions that are specific to the company. Mainstream brands often feel more pressure to conform to trends and fashions, whereas the smaller companies can take advantage of the situation by pivoting based on their customers’ demands. I’m not talking about the usual “flankers” or “limited editions”, but more the idea of offering variations based on feedback received. One company that has fully embraced this idea is ånd fragrance, with their voyage-of-discovery collaboration with Careys Secret Garden.
Niche perfumery, artisan perfumery, independent perfumery - whichever term you prefer, it’s impossible to ignore the contribution that these make to the fragrance market. They have the ability to ignore high-street trends, because they're often produced in much smaller quantities, so the customer gets to experience scent styles they won’t find in the larger department stores. One of these independent companies is Orosmo Perfumery, and their two collections offer a wonderful insight into how “niche can be wearable”. So, with summer approaching, let’s head to the sea with the wonderfully aquatic Au Bord de la Mer.
Would you be brave enough to translate your innermost memories, or even your secret places, into scent? It’s a question that many new brands ask themselves when they are thinking of launching, but often they’ll opt for more pedestrian inspirations instead. Releasing a fragrance to the world is one thing, but sharing your soul adds another layer. If the perfume isn’t well received, how does that reflect upon your experiences? When Frances Lamb launched Teniqua it was exactly this route that she went down, but thankfully with universal praise. Tides of Love sees her swap memories for places, and the result is an absolute joy.
The scent of the sea has been a fragrance trend that, whilst arguably exemplified by the classic L'eau d'Issey pour Homme, continues to be experimented with constantly by perfume houses around the world. This idea of capturing the aroma, the feel, and the look of the ocean has been presented in many forms, but not all of them have managed to capture both the majesty alongside the delicacy. For the launch of their new eau de toilette, Fragonard have thrown their hat into the ring and introduced a second aquatic fragrance to their male range, and it’s a celebration in the form of Bleu Riviera by Jordi Fernández.
