A critic, a reviewer, or an expert of any kind is never going to be able to please everybody. What one person sees as art another will see as wallpaper, what one person hears as music another will hear as white noise, and what one person smells as perfume another will smell as "pine-fresh lavatory cleaner". Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez have released their long awaited Perfumes: The Guide 2018, the follow-up to their 2008 industry-changing Perfumes: The A-Z Guide, and in the first two weeks of its release the internet has been flooded with smiles, laughter, tears and tantrums. So, what is it all about?
There is no doubt that the “niche” fragrance market is an exciting, if perilous, place to be at the moment. Anyone can set themselves up as a “perfumer” and attach a price tag to warrant an “exclusivity”, but it’s increasingly difficult to navigate through the new launches. One man who has been creating since 2006, and most definitely deserves to be more widely known, is Sven Pritzkoleit of SP Parfums. He was described by Luca Turin as having a “beguiling combination of directness and skill” and, with seventeen fragrances currently available, shows no signs of slowing down. So, let me introduce you to my favorites.
When we talk about fragrance we always tend to focus on the perfume that we spray onto ourselves. It’s less common to talk about the scents that surround us in the “real world”. This was brought home to me this week when I had to endure that dreaded trip to the dentist. I am part of the 25% in this country that have a fear of sitting in that chair, especially when I already knew that a one-hour procedure was in store. However, the thought of the dentist always conjures up very clear aromas for me and so I decided that on this visit I would concentrate on the scents that I picked up. With this in mind, what did I discover?
If you were asked what the most famous cologne in the world is then the chances are that 4711 would probably come to mind. This classic cologne has been a favourite since it launched back in 1792 and it became a regular gift for soldiers returning from Germany to give to their wives, even well into the 1970s. Originally created by Mülhens but now owned by Mäurer & Wirtz, 4711 has had numerous companion fragrances in the past but this year sees the beginning of a new seven-year series called 4711 Remix Cologne. Described as “tangy, loud and fresh”, let me introduce you to this year’s orange inspired interpretation.
There is one day every year that fills even the strongest heart with fear, and that is Father’s Day. Most men are not the easiest people to buy for in the first place, but trying to choose a gift for your own father can be a nightmare. The traditional socks, ties, cufflinks and toffee just don’t cut it anymore but trying to get some ideas out of him is often like getting blood out of a stone. Thankfully help is on hand this year from The Perfume Society in the form of their New Man Discovery Box and it’s sure to be a winner with even the most difficult dad. So, if you're still looking for the perfect gift then look no further.
The continued success of the niche fragrance market has meant that there has also been an obvious increase in the formation of new fragrance companies. The trap that some of these fall into is that the “concept” of the brand becomes more important than the “content” and so the customer is left feeling disappointed when they smell the actual fragrances. The latest company to enter the arena is the brainchild of Sarah Ireland. This self-taught perfumer has launched four scents, using music and memories as her inspiration, and the results are beautiful. So, let me introduce you to Sarah Ireland Perfumes.
When Marina Barcenilla won Best New Independent Fragrance for India in the 2016 Fragrance Foundation Awards it set in motion a complete rebranding of her company, gained her industry recognition, and also a loyal following of perfume fans that were fascinated by her approach to scent. The Perfume Garden, which she had launched in 2011, was renamed Marina Barcenilla Parfums and at the time she said, “while the name has changed the ethos remains the same, to create the finest fragrances using what nature has to offer.” Two years on I think it’s time to revisit India and see exactly why it became an award winner.
Part of the experience of purchasing a fragrance is the interaction that you have with the sales assistant. The information about a perfume, or even the little snippets of history and advice, can turn a simple shopping trip into a memorable visit. However, “memorable” isn’t always good if the information is wrong. Most perfume companies offer training programs but it isn’t always possible to cover everything, and this is why The Fragrance Foundation now provides their Online Training Course. It’s advertised as a chance to gain more knowledge about the history and workings of the perfume industry, but does it succeed?
After studying to become a pharmacist in the family business, Sven Pritzkoleit also realised a long-standing fascination with perfumery. Many years of trial and error, studying and creating, and learning about the raw materials of scent ultimately resulted in critically acclaimed fragrances under the name of SP Parfums. With praise from the industry and fans alike, and also recent collaborations with Miguel Magos and Zooloigst, I thought it was time to find out about Sven’s own fragrance memories during “Stephan’s Six”.
