Our lives often seem to be centred around finding “the one”, whether that be the perfect relationship, the ideal job, or your forever home. But the concept of “the one” also extends to perfume. There is still a fashion for hunting out a “signature” scent, that is one that you’ll be instantly recognised for wearing. I’m sure there have been times when you’ve known who is about to walk into the room before you see them because of their fragrance. However, with so many perfumes to choose from, where do you begin? Well, Ruth Mastenbroek has given you the perfect starting point with her aptly named Signature.
The need to explore is something that is instilled in us all from childhood - whether that’s as simple as discovering what lies at the end of the garden or delving into personal heritage. We are all naturally curious by design, and that doesn’t change as we get older. Exploring perfume can also be thought of in that simple or complex way - are you discovering the various types of fragrance or delving into one fragrance family? Electimuss London have combined a few of these ideas in their Explorer Collection, which draws from Roman society and their love of exploration, and it all begins with Spice d’Arno.
Many fragrances take their names from singular ingredients or, as became the fashion when Jo Malone London started the trend, a combination of defined notes. Who can ever forget Lime Basil & Mandarin? This is a great way to focus the customer on the style of fragrance that they are going to smell and, in the case of singular names, the star ingredient. However, there is always the risk of preconceived ideas based on previous smelling experience. So, when 1000 Flowers launched Orange Blossom Petal, they cleverly implied a delicacy to the usual robust orange blossom, and the result was a delightful semi-floral experience.
It feels as though 2023 has raced towards the finish line as we suddenly find ourselves in the final throws of Christmas shopping. More by accident than design, I’ve managed to find myself recommending exactly the same perfume company as your ideal high street stocking saver that I did last year. That’s because, if you’ve left it until now to buy your festive floral of choice, you’d better jettison any idea of online ordering and head to the safety of the department store. Your 2023 “mad dash purchase” has got to be Dylan Purple Pour Femme from Versace, because sometimes only a designer fragrance will do.
The call that you’ll constantly hear in department stores up and down the country from fragrance fans is, “what’s new?” It’s always a difficult question to answer because, to quote Luca Turin, “every fragrance is new to someone”. This constant quest for “newness” in terms of time runs the risk of missing out on some cracking fragrances that may have escaped you along the way, or perhaps even ones that you’ve forgotten about, and so that’s exactly what you’re going to be treated to today. So, grab your party hats because we’re heading back to 2013 to celebrate the 10th birthday of Amber Rose from Shay & Blue.
When you wake up to the rain hammering on the windows or the heating beginning to switch on by itself, your thoughts can quickly turn to the image of a sun-drenched beach and a tropical cocktail within reach. These thoughts quickly disappear though as the reality of real life makes itself known, but that’s when perfume can quickly come to the rescue. Just one spritz can metaphorically allow you to pack your bags reach fo the suncream, and grab your passport. This was the idea behind Aphrodite by SOKI LONDON. Promising to “transport the wearer to a sensual paradise”, are you ready to enjoy some autumn sunshine?
Every perfume company longs to create a fragrance that stands the test of time. Recent releases are considered timeless if they last ten years, but a scent that manages to reach its two hundred and thirtieth birthday is most definitely legendary. A favourite of soldiers returning from Germany, and possibly the ultimate refreshing cologne, I’m talking about 4711. Originally launched in 1792, the difficulty of following up a worldwide hit is the double edged sword that comes with success. 4711 tackled this head on and when they started their Remix collection, and this year’s grapefruit explosion is destined to continue the tradition.
Fragrance inspiration often sees us travelling to distant shores, ancient periods of history or even literature that we may never have read. It’s these experiences outside of our usual lives that can easily conjure up a sense of mystery or excitement, so it’s not surprising that perfumers regularly call upon them when a new release beckons. Now, what’s distant to one person is actually just around the corner for the next, but the British Isles are definitely not a regular source of inspiration for scent. However, Ruth Mastenbroek has decided to buck this trend with her latest release. So, it’s time for some homegrown excitement courtesy of Zephyr.
The subject of gender in fragrance is something that is still being discussed at length, and it’s just as vocal in the niche sector as it is in the high street. The fragrances that you’ll find in the department stores are clearly split into masculine, feminine and unisex because this helps to guide customers to their “safe” choice. The more independent boutiques will split by fragrance family or style, but this does mean that the customer has to take a much bigger journey of discovery. It’s very hard for established companies to break this cycle, but that is exactly what Fragonard have done with Beau de Provence.
As we approach the end of a second year of restrictions and complications, I think it’s time that we all took a moment to reflect on the achievements that each of us have made. You don’t need to have learned a new language or raised money for charity, I’m talking about the fact that people simply found the strength to carry on when every day brought new challenges. No one could have predicted the last two years, and that is why it’s so wonderful to find a fragrance that was started back in 2019, launched in 2020 and which actually resonates so perfectly today. I’m talking about Heroic Story from Vines House Parfum.
“When life gives you lemons, make lemonade.” There can’t be anyone that hasn’t heard that expression, and the past year and half has tested it to the extreme. Changes in circumstances have forced companies and individuals to adapt like never before. When the usual way of earning a living suddenly disappeared, it quickly became apparent that there would be little help. The theatre industry was severely hit, with shows cancelled and closed, but one actor had the idea to turn the uncertainty into some much needed relaxation. Paul Keating launched RestN, and he is tipped for some seriously scented success.
After an impressive career working with some of the world’s finest fragrance and beauty houses, Rebecca Harrison decided that the time was right to launch her own perfume company, Vines House Parfum. Having split her time between Dorset and the southwest of France, the collection drew on the parallels between the wine and fragrance industries, and proved an instant hit with customers that were looking for perfumes with a story. So, as they celebrate their second birthday, I thought it was time to learn a little more about Rebecca during “Stephan’s Six”.
Described by The New York Times as “the glamorous vocal equivalent to diamonds flashing,” Monica Mancini is a double Grammy Award nominee. Daughter to the legendary film composer Henry Mancini, she has gone on to release five albums that truly are the perfect soundtrack to the imminent lazy summer days. So, put your feet up, grab a glass of wine, and discover Monica’s fragrance memories during “Stephan’s Six”.
One of the hardest challenges facing the fragrance industry, even in the days when you could actually get near a shop, was how to bewitch your customer into buying your perfume. A cold wall of bottles staring starkly back may have worked in the past, but companies are always having to dream up inventive ways to entice people to purchase. Getting the product onto the skin is always the challenge, that is unless you’re the undisputed Queen of persuasion. Jo Malone changed the perfume industry forever with her scented services, and the tradition continues with her newly relaunched Fragrance Paintbrush.
The past few months have been challenging, liberating, and deeply emotional in equal measure. Having to reach inside ourselves to find the strength to carry on, when we’re so often used to relying on the support of others, has been a new experience for many of us. This feeling of being without the usual scaffolding that we surround ourselves with has meant that we’ve had to draw on our own hidden reserves, and it has become a time of great personal change. It’s this idea of independence and self-discovery that is at the very heart of Ruth Mastenbroek's 2015 fragrance Oxford, and there’s never been a better time to discover it.
The fashion for home crafting seems to be at an all-time high at the moment with new businesses springing up every day. The Etsy platform has really helped to push these companies to greater prominence but it’s come at a cost. The majority of them are producing products based on other companies’ fragrances and many don’t even alter the name. How many times have you seen Lime Basil & Mandarin or English Pear & Freesia? One company that is trying to do something a little different though is Osmic. Their latest scent, Sea Salt & Driftwood, is a great example that home crafting can dare to be different.
The general speed of fragrance has gone from sedate to supersonic when it comes to the number of releases that a company will tend to launch in a year. In an effort to keep their customers interested, and in order to generate those much needed column inches in the press, new launches seem to come thick and fast. Whilst this offers quantity it doesn’t always offer quality. One perfumer who takes a much more measured approach to her creations is Ruth Mastenbroek. Two years since her last release, this month sees the launch of the much anticipated Dagian and it has most definitely been worth the wait.
The idea of using scent to perfume our surroundings is nothing new, we’ve been doing it for centuries, but the explosion in the home fragrance market is showing no signs of slowing down any time soon. From Jo Malone London’s iconic candles to Alessandro Agrati’s groundbreaking diffuser, our need to scent the rooms in our houses is born out of a love of pretty aromas but also a need to mask potential unpleasantness. This idea of merely covering up unwanted smells is being turned on its head with the launch of the new Australian range of Air Detoxifying Aromatic Mists from Sensori+ and the result is wonderfully refreshing.
It’s springtime and that means that many people will be ditching the heavy household scents of winter and moving onto something that has a fresher and more vibrant nature to it. There are a few classic scents that we always bring out of hibernation at this time of year but, if you’re looking for something a little different to the citrus and windswept aromas, it’s always tricky to put together a collection that compliments each other. This is where Alejandro Klein has come up with the great idea of curating it for you by combining a diffuser, candle, and room spray. So, let’s see what his Spring Collection 2019 has to offer.
Jo Malone London started a tradition back in 2011 when they released their first “Brit Collection”, a series of fragrances that were designed to celebrate an aspect of British culture or history. From tea to the Tudors, and herbs to hyacinths, the company have always attempted to add a little fun into February and this year is no exception. Céline Roux, Vice President of Global Fragrance Development for Jo Malone London, called upon perfumers Yann Vasnier and Louise Turner to collaborate on the 2019 collection and the result is Wild Flowers & Weeds. So, will the company’s ninth year blossom or will it wilt?
