The question of how a perfume company can expand its range, and at the same time potentially attract a new set of customers, is one that every brand has to eventually ask itself. It’s very easy to continue in exactly the same vein, especially if you’re experiencing success, but this can also actually limit a company’s overall growth. If you’re famous for exceptional extrait strength perfumes then the obvious route is to move into the more affordable Eau de Parfum concentration, but this needs to be done sensitively. One company that has achieved this seamlessly is Widian, and their Almond fragrance is absolutely delicious.
Whether you’re thinking about music, film, theatre or perfume, there are certain examples in every genre that demand to be referenced as the ultimate interpretation. This can be because they have captured the public’s imagination, maybe won the applause of the critics, but ultimately they stand alone on a pedestal. When it comes to perfume, there is arguably only one ingredient that truly bucks this trend. Oud has been a mainstay of the fragrance market since 2007, but its tenacity has made it challenging for many. It would take fourteen years for its heart to be truly revealed, and that was in Silky Woods from Goldfield & Banks.
An increasing trend in perfumery in recent years has been the desire to hunt out fragrances based on ingredients rather than the overall composition, so almost the reverse of the well-known saying “the whole is greater than the sum of its parts”. This quest for a specific ingredient can often leave the hunter disappointed, as there are multiple varieties and strengths available to a perfumer, so is this really the best way to choose a scent? Long counters filled with endless choices used to be the norm so, instead of an ingredient-focused approach, are you ready to choose by complementary odour profile instead?
When companies give perfumers the brief for a new release, there’s always the possibility that it will go in an unexpected direction. We all interpret things differently, whether that’s music or words, and the joy is often discovering how those descriptions have been translated into scent. Some perfumers will accentuate animalic notes, others revel in the piercing aromatics, but a creation will ultimately be born. When Electimuss London began work on their new release, they wanted to realise a fragrance that celebrated the Roman Gladiator in all his glory. Gladiator Oud is the result, and it’s the perfect example of excess within control.
The idea of using childhood as the inspiration for a fragrance is always going to be fraught with dangers, quite simply because everyone’s childhood is different. What resonates with one person may not be familiar to another. Add into the mix a fashionable ingredient and you also have a second level of preconceived ideas that carries the potential to disappoint. So, when Sarah Baker announced that her latest fragrance would combine childhood memories and oud, there was a definite intake of breath. Could the inspiration and the ingredient really be brought seamlessly together and offer something truly original?
When we see a new fragrance appear from our favourite company we often forget that there have been months, or even years of preparation to get to this stage. From deciding on the concept to choosing the perfumer, every brand tries their hardest to look into the future and create a new bestseller. Whether you’re large or small the same goal applies. When Fragonard was deciding on the new fragrance to join their masculine collection they decided it was time to push the boundaries of expectation and, with a nod to faraway travel, the timing of Secret Absolu couldn’t have been more perfect.
Anybody that has followed me regularly will know that I have a deep love for the humble bar of soap. This started as a child when I would regularly reach for the Imperial Leather at home or, even more exotic to small fingers, the Coal Tar at my grandfather’s house. I’m not saying that I liked the thought of washing as a child, I don't think that any of us did, but I loved the smell that these fragranced bars provided. In recent years and months we’ve seen soap make a resurgence that could never have been planned, and it’s coincided with the launch of the wonderfully scented and beautifully packaged Shower PUK.
The great thing about the current variety of fragrances that are available is that the selection really is a worldwide affair because the days of perfume production being the sole domain of France, and closely followed by America and the United Kingdom, are long gone. It’s this wonderful chocolate box selection of scents that truly gives the customer such an eclectic mix to choose from, and at a wide range of prices. Romella International are based in Stockholm and their SG79 range has proved to be a big hit with fragrance fans, and this looks set to continue with the release of the new N°7.
One of the biggest problems for many companies at the moment is trying to reconcile environmental impact with customer expectations. The issue of exactly how a product is manufactured goes hand in hand with the packaging that it ends up wearing, and it’s the latter that is often the biggest problem. In an effort to reduce the amount of plastic that the world uses, many companies have started to offer alternatives for our everyday essentials and the latest is Baron. They’ve taken the humble bar of soap, they’ve given it a slick new design, but they haven’t charged the earth. Welcome to the Baron Shower Bar.
France is often referred to as the spiritual home of the perfume industry and it’s one of the many reasons why people still pilgrimage to the country in a quest for scented inspiration. You have the perfume attractions in Grasse, including the famous Institute of Perfumery, but there is also a lot happening in the nation’s capital. Paris boasts numerous fragrance companies and perfumers ready to create whatever is required, but it also promises something a little different thanks to the niche houses that have sprung up. One of the newest is Byron Parfums, and its current collection of five fragrances is intriguing.
As many readers will already know, I’ve always found the “natural perfumery” side of the fragrance industry fascinating because the challenges that are experienced are not for the faint hearted. Synthetic ingredients are great at providing multifaceted layers and so the natural perfumer needs to be creative and knowledgeable in order to make their finished fragrance truly rounded. This can certainly be said of Oud Octavo by Prosody London. Created by Keshen Teo, it takes the star ingredient but presents it in a wonderfully accessible way that is missing from many of the other oud fragrances on the market.
The continuing obsession with oud fragrances is something that, until recently, had seemed to have escaped the Grasse perfumers. I'm talking here about Fragonard, Galimard and Molinard. Their usual audience were looking for rich florals, spicy orientals, delicate eau fraiche, definitely not heavy resinous oud offerings. That is until now. With a huge influx of Russian and Middle Eastern tourists the perfumeries had to adapt, and all three now offer an oud-based fragrance. Fragonard and Galimard have made theirs boutique exclusives but Molinard have gone mainstream with their latest release, Oud Magnétique.
They’re at it again! Love them or hate them there is no getting away from them. I am talking about LYNX, or AXE if you live outside of the UK. As I’ve said in the past, they were originally used with the same gusto as Brut, their older relative. They stormed the market in 1983 with Amber, Musk and Spice before tempting in a new generation with a more “homage” approach. Body Sprays that resembled Fahrenheit, Aqua Manda, even Guerlain’s L’Instant started appearing in 2008, and I’ve mentioned these affordable creations in a previous article. However, this year has seen the launch of the first three scents in their Daily Fragrance range. A departure for the brand because this time they are taking a more “fragrance trend” approach, and I guarantee that people are going to be shocked. So, let’s take a look at the power three and see whether you’re Signature, Urban or Adrenaline.
When Guerlain launched Santal Royal in October 2014 it is fair to say that its success took everyone a little by surprise. It seemed that every week brought a new Oud fragrance, and the market was becoming saturated. Somehow this black beacon, itself a reworking of the classic Aqua Allegoria bottle, grabbed the attention of the customer and its place in Guerlain's catalogue was secured. However, in the way of all perfume houses, its success meant that there had to be a successor. It arrived in January 2016 and was called Ambre Éternel. With a lot to live up to, what would the new fragrance bring to this once classic brand?
