The dark days of the pandemic may seem like a lifetime ago now, as we all busy ourselves once again on life’s hamster wheel, but it has meant a massive shift in the perfume market. Those two years focused our attention away from personal fragrance, that beautiful juice found inside a glass bottle, and instead made us think about the scent of our surroundings. With so much time spent indoors, and without the option to travel, we all wanted some scented escape. That initial fragranced flurry saw many candle brands unfortunately fall by the wayside, but the demand had been ignited and it heralded the arrival of Purnima Fragrances.
Niche Perfumery is a term that’s hard to categorise these days, because the goal posts of what is produced by the large brands has shifted dramatically. Originally thought of as an alternative to the large corporations, most high-street brands now have a “niche” department creating more unusual offerings, and so the lines have definitely blurred. Once the domain of an independent producer creating in small batches, the focus is now firmly on the quality rather than the quantity. Many companies have tried to gain a foothold in the niche sector, with varying success, but the latest to proudly bloom is the Wales-based Ortir Apothecari.
There's a big push at the moment for simplistic designs and uniformity across the fragrances offered by perfume brands. With the bottles remaining constant, it’s often just the label that changes. While the bottle clearly won’t affect the fragrance inside, the pleasure of holding a sculptural item in your hand definitely accentuates the act of applying your favourite perfume. Some bottles are iconic, think of Guerlain’s Shalimar or Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male, and they certainly played a part in their legendary status. Bringing scent and design together is a definite skill, and that can absolutely be said of Soleil Lunar by Lalique.
With May now upon us, and the weather showing a determination to warm up, it’s the perfect time to enjoy those lazy evenings with friends. The familiarity that comes with comfortable companionship really shouldn’t be underestimated, especially when we’re constantly confronted by the “newest”, the “latest”, the “biggest”, and the “brightest”. This idea of familiarity meeting comfort is one that fragrance companies often work long and hard to achieve in their new releases, because it gives customers a feeling of security, and so to find it in abundance in Jonathan Ward’s new Mink Opal perfume is quite the achievement.
The seasonal release from any perfume company is often looked forward to with a greater anticipation than their main ranges, because the excitement of discovering the latest treat, and also knowing that it’s a limited edition, turns the act of wearing fragrance into something even more special. Summer and Spring launches were historically dominated by Bronze Goddess from Estée Lauder and the Aqua Allegoria collection from Guerlain, but all of that was challenged in 2010 when Fragonard began its own seasonal scent range. This year sees Fleur de Citronnier take centre stage, and the result is an uplifting delight.
The worlds of fashion and fragrance have always gone hand in hand, and it’s a tradition that shows no signs of slowing any time soon. These two industries survive on their ability to be inspirational and, more importantly than ever in an oversaturated perfume market, wearable. The mention of fabric “notes” or “velvety” finishes are a great way to spark the imagination when it comes to a customer’s appreciation of a scent, but it also feeds into that all-important fragrance description. One of the most recent additions to the fashion crossover is the re-emergence of tie-tastic Hugh Parsons, and the evocative Camden Town.
One of the biggest challenges that faces any company is staying up-to-date and relevant in an ever-changing market. With so many choices thrust onto customers every day, remaining at the forefront of their minds is the constant goal. Sometimes a brand will opt for a revamp and refocus to continue the ongoing fight against the competitors, while other times they will do a full reinvention. Told London is the latest company to pitch perfectly when it comes to their reinvention and, alongside a recently announced Best Newcomer nomination in this year’s Fragrance Foundation Awards, they are already gathering a loyal following.
The celebratory side of fragrance is something I’ve covered often when writing about perfume, and it always goes hand in hand with a desire to make memories. The link between scent and recollection is well documented, so it’s hardly surprising that companies turn to this olfactive format when wanting to cement an occasion or even a location. New fragrances that centre around a brand’s journey or particular milestones are a great way to recognise loyalty, but the perfume also has to stand on its own. 312 Saint-Honoré from bdk Parfums is the perfect example of scented celebration meeting stylish sophistication.
Our lives often seem to be centred around finding “the one”, whether that be the perfect relationship, the ideal job, or your forever home. But the concept of “the one” also extends to perfume. There is still a fashion for hunting out a “signature” scent, that is one that you’ll be instantly recognised for wearing. I’m sure there have been times when you’ve known who is about to walk into the room before you see them because of their fragrance. However, with so many perfumes to choose from, where do you begin? Well, Ruth Mastenbroek has given you the perfect starting point with her aptly named Signature.
What makes an interesting and original perfume? It’s the question that I get asked most often, and one that companies constantly strive to realise in every new release. In a market that is over-saturated with launches, and chock-a-block with “trends” that often seem to merely be a rehash of previous ideas, uncovering that elusive point of difference is vital if your perfume is going to stand out from the competition. One of the ways that a new slant can be thrown on scent is when its country of origin is not what you’d expect, and that’s exactly what’s on offer with Printemps from Organ Tale.
Simplicity in scent is something that's often attempted by the perfume industry but, with the exception of companies like Shay & Blue or 4711’s Acqua Colonia collection, results can be quite linear and uninspiring. The complexity of traditional methods ends up being replaced with single notes, or a blend of similar aromas, so there isn’t any excitement in the finished fragrance. One of the companies that have managed to embrace “simplicity” but also still retain “style” is Obvious Parfums. With the moto that their fragrances are “simple, sophisticated and respectful”, it’s time to discover the distinctly different Un Patchouli.
The question of how a perfume company can expand its range, and at the same time potentially attract a new set of customers, is one that every brand has to eventually ask itself. It’s very easy to continue in exactly the same vein, especially if you’re experiencing success, but this can also actually limit a company’s overall growth. If you’re famous for exceptional extrait strength perfumes then the obvious route is to move into the more affordable Eau de Parfum concentration, but this needs to be done sensitively. One company that has achieved this seamlessly is Widian, and their Almond fragrance is absolutely delicious.
The second perfume that a company releases is often the hardest to truly crack, because you’re riding on the success of the first but trying to stretch your creative horizons. Finding the middle ground in the battle between being too safe and too divergent becomes the scented goal. There have been many examples of the follow-up fragrance not hitting the mark, and so hearing that Leonie Sherif was releasing Twilight, her second fragrance, brought feelings of excitement and trepidation in equal measure. This songbird is no stranger to experimenting with musical chords, but would the perfumed ones be just as accommodating?
Whether you’re thinking about music, film, theatre or perfume, there are certain examples in every genre that demand to be referenced as the ultimate interpretation. This can be because they have captured the public’s imagination, maybe won the applause of the critics, but ultimately they stand alone on a pedestal. When it comes to perfume, there is arguably only one ingredient that truly bucks this trend. Oud has been a mainstay of the fragrance market since 2007, but its tenacity has made it challenging for many. It would take fourteen years for its heart to be truly revealed, and that was in Silky Woods from Goldfield & Banks.
Alternative spins on established styles are one way that the perfume industry continues to reinvent itself with each new release. Whether this is a particular fragrance family, a worldwide bestseller, or even a specific ingredient focus, it’s the new presentation of something which has a familiarity that often grabs the attention of customers above a wholly new idea. There are few perfume inspirations that haven’t been done in one way or another other in the past, but the new Artemis from Soki London absolutely lives up to the well-known adage that “if you go down to the woods today, you’re sure of a big surprise.”
When we talk about luxury fragrances the focus is often firmly fixed on the rarity of ingredients, the limited quantity produced, and even the perfumer behind the scent. It all goes to create that appearance of luxury, and to explain the price that is usually attached to the perfume. However, the other way to simulate luxury is to align with an existing luxurious product. Whether that’s a celebrity, a destination, or a clothing brand, their kudos brings an established and dedicated following. This was the route that Bentley took when they entered the perfume market, and their latest fragrance Become continues the experience.
January is the perfect time to take a pause after the madness of Christmas and hunker down before the deluge of new perfumes start coming at us like cabs off a rank. In the never-ending quest for increased sales and contented customers, the big brands are gearing up to build on the successes of 2024 with the latest flanker and hottest trend, but there are also some hidden gems out there that are waiting to be rediscovered. So, we’re heading to the high street to spend some time with Elizabeth Arden, and perhaps even introduce you to your new perfume in the form of White Tea Eau de Parfum.
The first perfume a company releases is often the fragrance that the creator has wanted to realise their whole life - whether that's the embodiment of a person, a place, or an emotive experience. It’s the releases that follow however that can cause the issues. Will the second, third or fourth be met with the same response, and is the inspiration strong enough? When Charles Wong launched Aurora back in 2019 he started gently but, over the following two fragrances, has grown in both scented drama and luxurious subjects. The fourth perfume in the collection takes us to the South East of France, and is as beautiful as its inspiration.
